I was ready to apply the finish. Next I sanded the scrap walnut to about 1/16" in thickness. Most guitars have the maker's logo or some custom guitars have the maker's name. I planned to fill with glue and sanding dust and kept moving on. I looked at Dremel tools, but after reading reviews I purchased the Black and Decker RTX-B at about 1/3 the cost of a Dremel. I applied four coats of Behlen vinyl sealer, first with light sanding after the first two coats. I sanded the bracing to the curved lines with the drum sanding bit in my drill press. Next, I cut some maple for the side binding out of some scrap that came with my guitar back and side wood order. Not satisfied with owning and playing a guitar made by a luthier, however skilled, they get a special sense of satisfaction from building their own. The next day I trimmed the strips that protruded slightly so they were flat and flush with the edges of the sides. You have to look for a supplier who sells tops for cello or bass to become a one-piece top with a length of 90 to 100 cm. Applying a bead of glue to the channel, I pressed in the maple strip and held it in place with tape, dabbing off excess glue as I went. Thanks for a well documented project with many pictures (and fun written, too! Now I had to figure out how to attach the neck. I thought about it, tried to visualized the process, and I kept having these disastrous scenes running through my mind, but I was ready. I decided to make the bottom of the fret board near the sound hole have a slight arc. The first thing you will need is a book on the subject and I recommend two. Cost was a big consideration for me, as some woods can be very expensive. This was the first of what was to be many mistakes. Binding held on with tape while glue sets. I glanced through this chapter and decided to do something different (not surprising.) I sanded it down, but now it is slightly off the circle at the pointed end. I squeezed out a generous bead of Titebond onto the top to the kerfing and pressed on the sound board, trying to keep the center lines aligned. and all the 12 dominant seventh chords (F7,G7,C7,etc. Question: This is great. Making your own classical guitar can be a challenge and it takes patience and some handy skills but it definitely something the average do it yourself person can accomplish. I had a piece of scrap walnut with interesting figure in the grain, so I used that. I guess that was a fourth decision. I have a few block planes, but they are dull and I've never really been very skilled at using them for finer, detailed work. Title: Make Your Own Classical Guitar: Author: Stanley Doubtfire: Edition: reprint: Publisher: Schocken Books, 1983: So at this point I had wood for the top, back, and sides. The paste wax dried white, leaving white residue in the wood grain, and I slopped super glue on the wood anyway. It had a rich sound (kind of warm and bright, I guess) with lots of sustain. You also create a jig that will hold the whole guitar together when you glue it into a complete whole. I could have made my own, but I decided to purchase them from Stewart-MacDonald since they were relatively inexpensive ($3.20 a piece for a 15 inch strip, I needed four). Then I marked the bracing where it extended outside of the body. A half dozen hand tools will be needed to make your guitar and these include a plane, block saw, hand scraper, several chisels, jigsaw wire cutters, several clamps, a power drill, and a 6 inch circle cutter. Then I used the drum sanding bit to take off the wood under the line. When I placed the edges of my wood pieces together, and held them up to the light, I saw light coming though the joint. He will also show you his mistakes along the way and his own fixes, so that way if you make the same mistake, you will have an answer right there! Walnut in general is supposed to be similar to rosewood or mahogany. I hoped the strings would clear the frets in this area. Actually I would not mind owning this one. Next, I added a walnut layer to the bottom of the bridge to raise it about 1/16 inch. ); ; press computer keyboard keys to play these major, minor and dominant seventh chords (e.g. Wondering if the cedar bracing will work out and if the wood is thin enough to make the body "sing.". It was cut slightly wider than the thickness of the fret board. Oh well. I cut away the bracing at the marks so it would fit inside of the guitar body and also cut away the kerfing where the bracing would contact it. I did the same for the soundhole diameter on the scrap wood. I think some more stickers are in order. Try again. :-). They were held in place with clothes pins clamped on about every 1/2 inch or so. I almost didn’t want to do this because I thought maybe it would sound dull. I chose western red "sinker" cedar for the top (or sound board, as it is called) and claro walnut for the sides and back. I paid about $30 for the cedar top and about $75 for the walnut sides and back. Nice job especially with the second two builds. He will also show you his mistakes along the way and his own fixes, so that way if you make the same mistake, you will have an answer right there! The book includes lots of photos and even full scale plans, which are handy, but it lacked information I needed. It seemed to work out fine. I laid out the pieces on a sheet of card stock and glued them in place, making sure to use plenty of glue where the pieces met. Steam was created using an old coffee pot, with a small piece of copper pipe replacing the glass bubbler, that on a small camp stove. Verified Purchase. "Sinker" means it came from a cedar log salvaged from a lake or river bottom and is therefore probably pretty old. I wanted to put thin, black-and-white accent prufling strips along each side of the maple strip, so I routed a channel for the maple strip. The problem in drawing the wood back and forth is that I exerted uneven pressure on the wood. Happy. so they say. And Brazilian rosewood is the wood of choice for most classical guitars. Then select it. This turned out to be a mess. I very carefully used my B&D rotary tool with a 1/8" router bit to gouge out clearance for the bracing ends. Then I marked the position for two holes on the tenon of the neck. I used a small hand plane to clean up the edges. I will not know until some time after I have finished. I only did this to the top. I used the plans that came with the book to trace half of the body shape onto a piece of cardboard and then transferred that to a small sheet of 1/8 inch thick clear polycarbonate plastic to use as a template. I decided to do it anyway and even soaked the wood in water first. If they are too close, they may buzz while the instrument is being played. Instead of fussing with clamps, I came up with a different way to clamp the back on. I measured carefully and have two production guitars with the same scale length for comparison. The school runs three twelve week courses a year and beginners mix with experienced students. After some fine-tuning (pun intended), removing a little wood with sandpaper to make the neck fit as flush as possible to the body, I removed it and applied some stain. All you have to do is assemble it and finish it. I filled it with a small amount of epoxy and walnut sanding dust. The top was ready for the rosette. It is a beat-up, autograph-covered Martin N-20 acoustic. There were some small gaps along parts of the edge because of the lack of flatness on the kerfing top. I was really impressed with the sound of your guitar. I added a fill around the rosette made up of super glue and walnut sanding dust, of which I had plenty. For example [my story] would show as my story on the Web page containing your story.TIP: Since most people scan Web pages, include your best thoughts in your first paragraph. I rubbed the block with the inlay attached on my large sanding block that was held in a vise. After wiping the water from the top, I used Turtle wax rubbing compound from an auto supply store to polish the finish. I ordered the exact parts (hex head bolts, washers, and inserts) from McMaster-Carr. I realized the neck angle was too sharp. Made from scratch We make our custom guitars with a combination of high quality raw materials, old-school woodworking techniques, modern machinery, and a whole lot of highly-skilled human energy. That must be the ultimate challenge! This was the method I chose. I continued this process but still could not make the joint "perfect". except when I removed the sides from the mold I found I had been too aggressive with the clamping and had slightly deformed one of the sides by causing a noticeable indentation from the wood. We'll study your custom guitar's specs, offer our expert advice, and get your written approval before starting your custom build. Once the side to be bent was in the steam box for several minutes, and there was an abundance of steam escaping from its joints, I slowly clamped the wood onto the mold.